The Road to Serendip

When I was a child coconut only came in the desiccated form we sprinkled on orange flavoured icing. Then Thai food became common and we began using coconut milk and cream. But when Alistair turned vegan we discovered a diverse range of coconut products: coconut yoghurt, coconut ice cream, coconut soap, coconut flour, coconut sugar and coconut oil, which Alistair buys in increasingly larger jars. By the way - for those of you with a stainless steel refrigerator a smear of coconut oil is a great way to clean the fridge and keep that new-look steel sheen. I thought I knew every use for coconut until I came to Sri Lanka and discovered there was so much more to this fruit. They tie coconut shells on rope to make climbing ladders to climb the coconut trees and while up there they tap the syrup from the trunks which as toddy serves up a naturally alcoholic drink, or can be processed into a vinegar, similar to say a raspberry vinegar, or a treacle which is thin like maple syrup and is served...

As at home, while travelling I am obsessed by food, and as one meal finishes I am already planning the next. So on this trip we included a cooking class, and some research on good old Trip Advisor led us to Sonia's cooking class in Galle. Sonia collected us from our villa with a couple of tuk tuks to take us to the market to purchase our ingredients. I was slightly confused by the fact that Sonia was actually called Caruna (phonetic Australian spelling - but more on names later), and although it took Tom and Terry sometime to stop calling her Sonia, she was unperturbed and took a shine to both of them. Cathy, Julia and I only were only ever referred to as "sister", whereas Caruna called the boys by name, and quickly adopted the pet name "Tommy" for her favourite. Caruna was loud and bouncy, and quite tactile as Terry and "Tommy" discovered, and a mountain of fun. Our party was joined by French back-packer Ebony who seemed happy enough to jo...

You get these Monty Python moments travelling around Sri Lanka: the evidence of the colonial past is evident in many ways. The names Pererra and Pedro are common from the original Portuguese colonialists, as is the strong presence of Christianity; the Dutch left an extensive canal system that helps irrigate fields for food production; and then came the British. So what have the British done for Sri Lanka ? As in India, the British developed an impressive railway system in Sri Lanka and the justice system here is an English legacy. School learning was encouraged by the British and education remains highly valued here: Sri Lanka has an impressive 96% literacy rate, above world average. Being colonialists the British were not content until they recreated a little Britain to remind them of the mother country, no more so than in Nuwara Eliya which has a touch of the Cotswolds about it. The colonialists escaped the heat of Colombo in this high country retreat and built golf courses, introd...

Ever been to beautiful Milford Sound on New Zealand's South Island? Tom and I took Tim and Alistair some years back and made the 5 hour bus trip to the remote sound only to find dense fog. I asked a local working on the tourist boat who confessed that Milford Sound only offers those picture book views 50 days of the year, the rest of the time it is impenetrable fog. And such was our experience today at the End of the World, a cliff top view across the expansive Horton Plains to the coast some 80 kilometres away. The trek to the End of the World starts with a 5:00am hotel pick up and early drive to the national park, and it being pre-dawn we were treated to sightings so wild water buffalo and deer. Then the 4 kilometre trek to the peak, in rain and sloshing through puddles and rivlets along the rocky path. But it would all be worth it, the view is said to be unequalled. But let the pictures do the talking .... Hotel provided picnic at 5:00am in the van The walk starte...

Now I don't want to get all political, or sound paranoid, but ... It is no secret I like a bit of shopping, so when we arrived our Sigirya hotel I made a beeline for the jewellery shop. I fixed on some inexpensive citrine earrings, but as I did not have my purse on me I promised to come back. Driving along the next day our driver, who is very solicitous of our welfare, instructed us not to shop at hotels as the prices would be higher than the shops. But I had given my word... and you can't go back on your word. I just swore my fellow travellers to secrecy and snuck back and got the earrings. All good. It was our last day at the hotel that morning and as I handed back my glass of half finished wood apple juice (I will try anything once, and wood apple juice is definitely a once only experience) I was stunned when the waiter said 'yes Madam prefers the avocado juice she had yesterday". OMG! I am being watched. Buying jewellery in Sri Lanka - the sapphire island ...

“ When he saw how gaily the birds flew about and how the Hare and the Chipmunk and all the other animals ran nimbly by, always eager to see everything there was to be seen, the Tortoise was very sad and discontented.  He wanted to see the world too, and there he was with a house on his back and little short legs that could hardly drag him along. We can help you to see the world,” said the herons. “Take hold of this stick with your teeth and we will carry you far up in the air where you can see the whole countryside. But keep quiet or you will be sorry.” The Tortoise was very glad indeed. He seized the stick firmly with his teeth, the two Herons took hold of it one at each end, and away they sailed up toward the clouds.Just then a Crow flew by. He was very much astonished at the strange sight and cried: “This must surely be the King of Tortoises!” “Why certainly——” began the Tortoise.  But as he opened his mouth to say these foolish words he lost his hold on the stick...